| Vågan kommune
includes Svolvaer, the so-called "capital" of Lofoten, complete with
its own airport, Hurtigruten ferry terminal, vinmonopolet, decent
hotels, bars on the waterfront...and a population of 4,378!
The name apparently derives from the Norse, "chilly fishing village"
and there was still plenty of snow around when I visited in late
June. On the plus side their
sculptural contribution to skulpturlandskap is easily accessible and
one of my favourites, there are art galleries and a beautiful if
rather modest outdoor museum at Kabelvåg and, for those who like
that sort of thing, an aquarium, plus of course the inevitable
spectacular scenery.
The kommune also lays claim to yet another
"Venice of the North" at Henningsvaer, a charming little fishing
village about 12 km from Svolvaer, so charming in fact that I found
myself spending a rather tranquil couple of days when I had only
intended a quick photo stop.
From all the hype about "magical light" and
a "magnet for artists and photographers", I had expected some kind
of photographers' paradise, which as a source of inspiration for me
was all well and good. However, as so often in Norway, despite
the perfect opportunities, the much vaunted "Fotobrygga" on the
island of Skrova turned out to be a glorified cafe sporting a few
random images of a journey on the Hurtigruten. I am so glad I
had resisted the temptation to subscribe to one of their overpriced
summer courses, at least if what was on show was any kind of
reflection of the output of such courses. |
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